So You Want to Crochet: How to Read a Pattern

This is one of the most basic things to learn.  If you don't know how to read a pattern, you will have a hard time learning how to crochet in the first place!  So lets start at the beginning.  When you first look at a pattern, it is going to tell you a few KEY things you will need to know:

Yarn Size

Here is a chart I really like that tells you all about the different sizes of yarn, what they are used for, and the suggested size of hook that you use.

Skill Level

Most patterns will tell you how difficult the pattern is.

Image from crochet-world.com

Crochet Hook Sizes:

Most patterns will tell you the size in metric AND U.S. Size Ranges.

Image from coatsandclark.com

The last and most important part about the pattern is the ability to read it!  If you are just beginning  you may want to print this post out and refer back to it as you start your first pattern!  The first time I looked at a pattern, I thought it was a foreign language!  It took me a while to really wrap my brain around around it.  Here is my BEST tip.  Take baby steps.  Just read a couple words at a time, crochet what it is asking you to, and then go to the next step.

Crocheting Abbreviations:

Click on any link for a brief explanation of each on LionBrand.com

approx = approximately beg = begin(s)(ning) bet = between BO = bind off bpdc = Back Post double crochet btwn = between care washing cleaning CC = contrasting color ch(s) = chain(s) ch-space = space previously made cn = cable needle CO = cast on cont = continu(e)(s)(ing) dbl = double dc = double crochet dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing) dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s) dtr = double treble (triple) crochet est = establish(ed) ext = extension foll = follow(s)(ing) fpdc = front post double crochet fpsc = front post single crochet fptr = front post triple crochet hdc = half double crochet inc = increas(e)(s)(ing) k = knit k1b = knit 1 in the row below k1b = knit through the back loop k2tog = knit 2 together k2togb = Knit 2 stitches together through back loop k3tog = knit 3 together k3togb = Knit 3 stitches together through back loop Kfb = knit in front and back of st lp st = loop stitch lp(s) = loop(s) M1 = make 1 M2 = make two MC = main color meas = measure(s) ndl(s) = needle(s) opp = opposite p = purl p1b = purl through the back loop p2sso = pass 2 slipped sts over p2tog = purl 2 together p2togb = purl 2 together in back p3tog = purl 3 together pat = pattern Pm = place marker psso = pass slipped stitch over PU = pick up rem = remain(s)(ing) rep = repeat(s)(ing) rev = revers(e)(ing) Rev St st = reverse stockinette stitch rf = right front RH = right hand rnd(s) = round(s) RS = right side rsc = reverse single crochet S2KP or S2KP2 = slip 2 stitches together, knit 1, pass two slip stitches over sc = single crochet sc2tog = single crochet 2 together sc3tog = single crochet 3 together sk = skip sk2p = Slip 1, k2tog, pass sl st over skp = slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over sl = slip sl st = slip stitch slip1-k1-psso = slip 1, knit 1, pass slip stitch over sm = slip marker sp(s) = space(s) sq(s) = square(s) ssk = slip, slip, knit St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es) t-ch = turning chain tbl = through the back loop tog = together tr = treble (triple) crochet work even WS = wrong side wyib = with yarn in back wyif = with yarn in front yo = yarn over yrh = yarn over (yarn round hook)

Here are a few others:
[] -- work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
() -- work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed
* -- repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed
** -- repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat from a given set of instructions.
" -- inches
alt -- alternate

Last but not least:

Gauge:

This is one of the most misunderstood crocheting tools.  Mainly, because people, like me, get impatient and don't check it and most of the time the hat or whatever comes out the wrong size.  Everyone crochets differently, we hold our hooks different, our stitches are different sizes, etc.  The gauge is what we check so that we are working the same size as the author of the pattern.  For example:  Say the pattern tells you that the gauge is 12 dc = 4".  Well, this means that if you did 12 double crochets and measured them, then it should be 4 inches long.  If it is shorter, you may need to use a larger hook.  If it is bigger, than use a smaller hook, and work it out again to get closest to 4 inches as you can.

Here is was Lion Brands says about gauge:

Gauge is the term that is used to define the proper tension you should work to insure that the crocheted piece you make will be the right size when it's completed. The hook size listed in the pattern is just the size used by the designer to work at the proper gauge. You may need to change hook size in order to work at the given gauge. It is especially important to work to the proper gauge when making garments -- anything that you want to fit properly!

Gauge is usually defined in the pattern by a ratio of stitches and rows to a given measurement such as 16 stitches and 14 rows in single crochet = 4". You should always work a swatch of fabric (approximately 4" x 4") in the stitch pattern of the piece you are making. Then count the number of stitches and rows in the measurement designated by the gauge given in the pattern. If you find that your swatch has more stitches and rows than the gauge, you are working too tightly so change to a larger hook and try again. If you have fewer stitches and rows in the area, you are working too loosely and should try a smaller hook. Keep changing hook size until you arrive at the proper gauge.

Now, don't look at all this and get discouraged.  ALL of this isn't going to be in a single pattern!  This is only a guide to help you read one.  Let's look at an example.

Let's say we are going to make this Santa Hat from FaveCrafts.com:

Let's take a peek at the first part of the pattern:

Hat circumference at bottom edge: 20 (22)". (This is telling you the size)
Directions are for size Small/Medium; changes for size Large are in parentheses. 

Materials:
RED HEART® “Holiday”: 1 Ball each 140 White/Silver A and 9090 Red/Red B. (This is the exact colors that they used, doesn't mean you have to.  This is also in it's way telling you the size.  Red Heart yarn is Worsted, Med, #4: so any other brands that size would do just as well)
Crochet Hook: 5mm [US H-8]. (We go by the H in the US)
Yarn needle. (A must have for weaving in loose ends)
Pompom maker. (I just use a tongue depressor or my hands)

GAUGE: 12 dc = 4”; 8 rounds = 4”. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge. (This is the same as the example above)

You can read the rest of the pattern here!

Then you begin!

-Cat

Stay tuned this week with more beginning lessons in crocheting.

Coming soon:
How to chain and slip stitch, and do some other things.
How to Single Crochet
How to Double Crochet
And much, MUCH more!

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So You Want to Learn to Crochet: Starting Out

This last week, during our ultimate giveaway events, we posed the question:  What would you like to see more of on this blog.  The answers were numerous but had several common themes.  One thing, you as readers would like to see more of are posts for beginning crochet.  I was really excited to see the enthusiasm for crocheting and the expressions for the desire to learn one of my most favorite things!

Today, I wanted to talk about what you need to get the best start on your crocheting journey.  There are easier ways if you know some of the tricks of the trade.  I didn't have anyone to teach me, I am a self-taught crocheter, so I learned by trial and error and more trial and error.  So to save you some of the pains I went through, let me give you my best tips for starting out!  Beginning with yarn selection.

Yarn

When it comes to starting out, believe it or not, there are "good" yarns and "bad" yarns to use to begin your journey.  I taught a some crochet classes this last year, and no matter how many warnings, how many emails or texts I sent out, half of my students STILL showed up to class the first day with yarn I told them NOT to buy.

All yarns are NOT created equal.

Now, mind you, my favorite yarns are not necessarily the yarns that are best to start out with.  But some of my favorite stuff is little harder to work with and not beginner friendly.

The best yarn to start out with, is the Red Heart brand.

Now, before you start whining and complaining that it's the cheap stuff, and it isn't as soft and yadda yadda, let me remind you that you are LEARNING.  There is nothing better to learn all your new skills than cheap, user friendly yarn.  Trust me.  Make sure this is something you really want to learn, something you are willing to invest in later -- and to get the best idea of how well you are able to do this, you need yarn that is easy to work with.  This is the stuff.

Once you have made a couple things to practice your skills, you can move onto some other brands that are little more pricey, but softer.  I really like Vanna's Choice (you can find this one just about anywhere):

Micheal's carries a brand I like called Loops & Threads: Impeccable, that is pretty good:

I LOVE a brand that Jo-Ann's carries called Deborah Norville: Everyday:

Hobby Lobby has one called I Love This Yarn, that is pretty easy to work with as well:

Other Types I love, but don't buy until you are fulling investing in crocheting, because they can be pretty pricey.

Cotton:  I love working with cotton, but it can be a bit tricky and isn't the greatest for ALL types of crocheting.  My favorite brand is carried at Hobby Lobby called "I Love this Cotton"

Wool:  Wool is fun, but super pricey right now.  I only use it on my sock monkey hats.  I would skip this for a while until you are more practiced.

DO NOT USE:

Simply Soft:  Even as an advanced crocheter, I hate this stuff.  I tell ALL my students not to show up to class with this brand EVER, and guess what?  Half of them ALWAYS DO!  I even put threats in my supply lists I send out, that I will drop kick them out the door if they show up with it.  I guess they don't take me seriously.  As a beginner, this is NOT the yarn for you.  I don't care how soft it feels compared to the Red Heart.  Don't fall for it.  Once you learn how to crochet and can actually ALTER a pattern, that's right, you read that right, ALTER a pattern.  Don't even LOOK at Simply Soft.  Here's why:

It claims to be Worsted Med yarn.  This is a total lie.  You will never meet gauge using this yarn as the pattern tells you.  It is thin, slick, and unless you are using a little hook, the stitches are loose, and the product stretches out SUPER easy.  Not worth it.  Don't buy it until you are advanced -- then help yourself.

Crazy Types of Yarn:  Now, I know that the sparkly yarn looks cool, or that ultra super fuzzy stuff... but these are yarns for more advanced crocheters, not beginners.

Now onto the other important item:

Hooks!!

I love my hooks.  It's sad really, but I do.  I actually wrote a post about my favorite types:  You can read it here!

I am a total fan of the Susan Bates hooks (above).  I WILL NOT use anything else.  I started out on the Boye hooks and really struggled until I discovered my Susan's.  I tell all my students this as well, and you do think they listen?  Heaven's no!  They all show up Boye's start cursing and whining when they can't hold them right, the stitches aren't flowing, and they keep catching unwanted yarn onto the hook, etc, etc.  At this point, I break out my Susan's and let them try them out.  They fall in love.  And sometimes they even try to sneak off with one!  They aren't really much more expensive, so that's not much of an excuse, and you don't ever have to pay full price if you print out a coupon or something.  Hobby Lobby has a whole set of Susan's for around $10, and if you get on their email list you will have a 40% off coupon to take in with you... see where I am going with this? (Note: I have never seen Susan Bates hooks at Wal-Mart, just a heads up!)

For just starting out, I would suggest you have two hooks for sure: H and I.  G and J can also be useful, but the H and I are the most commonly used ones for the stuff I do anyway.

Yarn Needles:

Get a package!  They are super cheap and you NEED at least one.  I really like the sharp ones, but lots of people like the dull ones... I don't.  Sharper the better for me!

Time to Learn!!

Now, you have your yarn and your hooks and it's time to get going!!  In summary, here are my best tips plus some for the newbie:

1. Start out with cheap yarn! (Red Heart or something similar)

2. Don't skimp on hooks because it's what's there.  If you don't learn with something you like, you may get discouraged and quit.  Buy one of each brands if you want and give them a go, they really aren't so pricey that you couldn't do it.

3. Invest in yourself.  Don't get discouraged.  There are 3 types of students in my classes: the crochet challenged, the average joes, and the natural talents.  Some may pick it up faster than others, that's natural with anything, BUT I promise you, that by the end of my classes (3 month/ once a week semesters), ALL my students that stuck to it are producing hats and their stitches are nice and even.  One of my most "challenged" students last summer ended coming up with better stuff than the crochet gifted one!  Mainly because she practiced more and really went for it!

4. Practice, practice, PRACTICE!!  You aren't going to get any good if you don't make the effort.  Anything great in life is worked for.  So work for it.  When I first started out, I literally filled a whole garbage bag full of practice projects.  Not good enough to give away, but they taught me how do the stuff I do today.

So pop on over and get your yarn and hooks, then get back here later or tomorrow (depending on when I have another minute) to read my next post on How to Read a Pattern!

Happy Shopping!

-Cat Pin It